There’s a new anti-snobbery food movement in France that evidently wants to take over America as well. Journalist Alexandre Cammas, one of the two founders of Le Fooding says that French cuisine was “caught in a museum culture: the dictatorship of a fossilized idea of gastronomy” with dishes like foie gras and volaille de bresse. Instead, he and fellow food writer Emmanuel Rubin want people “to eat and drink with feeling — to recognize that one eats with the nose, the eyes, the mouth, with everything that makes us human.” Adam Gopnik looks at this foodie phenomenon.